Titled after my favorite book by Bill Bryson, A Walk in the Woods, the book is a commentary on Bill’s trek along the Appalachian Trail. One of the few books to cause me to laugh out loud while reading in the break room of Kinko’s some 15 years ago. I remember his remarks on bears really incited my laughter.
This blog is dedicated to that memory. Nakatsugawa is a small town tucked on the southern end of the 
Japanese Alps. The still snow-capped mountains are beautiful, and the town itself is a wonderful tribute to small town living bridgining the gap between the valleys below the mountains and the mountains themselves. The Nakasendo Trail is an ancient road from the Edo period that stretched from Tokyo to Kyoto. It was a very popular highway (walking path), through the mountains, which caused many small towns to spring up alongside with inn for travelers to eat and rest. A portion of that trail has been preserved in some areas because of the government, but delightfully in several areas because the village owners have made a common agreement among them to not sell their property. The result are several towns which look as if they come from several centuries ago and provide an atmosphere that cannot be duplicated. 
Furthermore, Nakatsugawa to a small town Tsumago is the most beautiful hike through the moutains you can find along the Nasurendo Trail.
Despite visiting Japan the first time with Nathan, I had felt any nostalgia going at it alone. This, until, I came to Nakatsugawa. This town is an area Nathan served on his mission. Together we visited his old ward and stayed with members. He has a deep love for the place, which was apparent as we walked the streets and he showed me where daily and special events took place. Coming back to his walking ground was difficult. I felt like I was violating his turf. I immediately had to call him to feel better about it. Regardless, I wish we both would have known about the Nasurendo Trailhead being at Nakatsugawa the first time we came. I ended up staying in a youth hostel up in the hills, far away from everything else. It was a trek to get there, but worth it when I arrived. Although the owner is awkward socially, the stay was excellent because of the incredible views and I stayed in this cabin like hostel all by myself for both nights.
Waking up early I made my way to the Nasurendo and began the ascent toward Magome post-town. I’ve already been trekking through town and mountain alike, as you know, but this was different because it’s a different area of Japan. No longer was I walking through thick forests you can barely see through. This resembled something much closer to the mountains of home. The cobblestone path follows a river and in several places the original cobblestone path is used as the trail.
Magome is a small town near the top of the mountains. Its main street looks something out of an old city alleyway. The buildings, cheek to cheek, are made of dark wood and ornate carvings. Watermills are seen in several places as well. It was a grey day that promised rain. I’m glad I started early because I could capture 
many photos without people in the street and with the shops closed. While the towns have been able to maintain their culture on their own, they have adapted to tourists by opening their doors as arts and crafts stores and local cuisine stops.
From Magome to Tsumago is magnificent. It runs about 7km over a mountain. Along the route you pass watermills, waterfalls, old huts, and beautiful mountain scenery. I laughed at the sign you see here in the picture. Every so often they have a bell with a sign that reads: Ring this bell to scare off bears. I just can’t imagine bears roaming the mountains of Japan. I’ve been through the mountains a lot and I’ve seen one warthog and most recently snow monkeys in Nagano, but that is all. I’ve read forums and no one has ever seen the bear. I think its more to spark interest for the tourists. Regardless, I didn’t ring the bell. I would have loved to have seen a bear.
The entire day, once again, is impossible to share in words or pictures. It was a fantastic walk in the woods from one old town to the next, crossing a mountain ridge and enjoying traditional relics of a Japan that is quickly disappearing.
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